Few textiles carry the weight of history the way a Banarasi saree does. Woven in the ancient city of Varanasi — one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world — Banarasi sarees have been made for royalty, worn at weddings, and passed down as heirlooms for centuries.

This guide covers everything you need to know: the different types of Banarasi sarees, the weaving techniques, the motifs, the fabrics, and how to choose the right one for you.

What is a Banarasi Saree?

A Banarasi saree is a saree woven in Varanasi (also called Banaras or Kashi) in Uttar Pradesh, India. What distinguishes it from other Indian sarees is the use of zari — fine metallic thread in gold or silver — woven directly into the fabric to create intricate patterns. Banarasi sarees carry a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, meaning only sarees woven in the Varanasi region can be called Banarasi.

Types of Banarasi Sarees by Fabric

Katan Silk

Katan is the most prized Banarasi fabric. It is a pure silk weave in which both the warp and weft are made from tightly twisted silk threads, resulting in a smooth, lustrous fabric with excellent drape and durability. Katan sarees are heavier and more structured — considered heirloom quality.

Organza (Kora)

Banarasi organza is a sheer, lightweight fabric woven with fine silk or synthetic threads. It is lighter and more translucent than katan, with a crisp yet fluid drape. Organza sarees are popular for warmer weather and occasions where a lighter silhouette is preferred.

Soft Silk (Satin Silk)

Banarasi soft silk uses a finer yarn count than katan, resulting in a lighter, more fluid drape. It retains the lustre of silk but is more comfortable for extended wear.

Georgette

Banarasi georgette is a crinkled, lightweight fabric with a matte finish. It drapes very fluidly and is popular for its ease of wear.

Tissue

Tissue sarees are woven with metallic threads interspersed through the weft, giving the fabric a sheer, luminous quality. The metallic threads catch and reflect light, creating a distinctive shimmer.

Banarasi Weaving Techniques

Kadwa

In kadwa weaving, each motif is woven individually using a separate shuttle for each colour. This creates a cleaner, more precise motif with no loose threads on the reverse — considered one of the most skilled and time-intensive Banarasi techniques.

Cutwork (Katwa)

In cutwork, the extra weft threads used to create motifs are cut away after weaving, leaving a clean, precise pattern on the fabric surface. The cut edges give motifs a sharp, defined quality.

Jamdani

Jamdani is a supplementary weft technique in which additional threads are woven into the base fabric to create patterns. Banarasi Jamdani often incorporates zari alongside cotton or silk threads.

Shikargah

Shikargah, meaning "hunting ground" in Persian, is one of the most elaborate Banarasi motif styles. It depicts a forest scene with animals — deer, elephants, peacocks — set among trees and vines. It has Mughal origins and is considered a prestige weave.

Common Banarasi Motifs

• Buta / Booti: Small repeating floral or leaf motifs scattered across the body
• Jaal: An all-over lattice or net pattern, often with floral elements
• Kalga: A mango or paisley-shaped motif, one of the most classic Banarasi designs
• Shikargah: Elaborate hunting-ground scenes with flora and fauna
• Temple border: Geometric border with repeating triangular forms resembling temple spires

How to Choose a Banarasi Saree

By occasion

• Bridal / wedding: Katan silk with heavy zari — Shikargah, jaal, or all-over brocade
• Pre-wedding rituals (haldi, mehendi): Lighter fabrics — organza, soft silk, or tissue in pastels and yellows
• Festive / puja: Soft silk or organza with buti or border motifs
• Formal / evening: Organza or tissue with minimal body and rich border

By weave

• For heirloom quality: choose katan silk with kadwa weaving
• For lighter wear: choose organza or soft silk
• For a collector's piece: look for Shikargah or antique zari work

Identifying genuine Banarasi

• Check for the GI tag where available
• Genuine zari has weight — it should feel substantial, not papery
• Kadwa weaving has no loose threads on the reverse
• Minor irregularities in handwoven pieces are a sign of authenticity, not defects

Caring for a Banarasi Saree

Dry clean only. Store folded in a soft muslin cloth away from direct sunlight and moisture. Do not iron zari work directly — use a pressing cloth. Avoid contact with perfume or deodorant on the fabric.

Explore Banarasi Sarees at Neem Tres

At Neem Tres, every Banarasi saree in our collection is sourced directly from weavers in Varanasi. From the deep blue of Nocturne to the golden yellow of Kanaka, each piece is chosen for its craft, its story, and its ability to be worn and remembered.

Explore our Banarasi collection →

Explore Serein

See the Serein — Banarasi Soft Silk Saree from Neem Tres.